Beyoglu clubbing

Clubbing at the Badehane in Beyoglu. 

I was hoping to get some shots of rocking nightlife near Taksim for my book project but it was just too dark to get any technically perfect shots. Anyway, this was one that I particularly liked. They are dancing like crazy to Selim Sesler's clarinet and his gypsy band of musicians.

What it is: A really down to earth bar with sawdust on the floor that attracts musicians and students. Selim Sesler and his band usually perform on a Tuesday evening. It is open daytime and until late every night, their tables filling the traffic-free street to capacity. There's a cosy soba (coal-fuelled traditional stove) for the cold Istanbul winter nights.

Where it is: On General Yazgan Sokak straight opposite and a bit to the right of the entrance to the Tunel funicular. 

A chance encounter in a Beyoglu backstreet

Gypsy musicians regale a wedding party on a Beyoglu backstreet. 

Last night when returning from photographing at the Grand Bazaar (Kapalicarsi) I came across these guys... One is playing the davul (bass drum) and the other the reedy and wailing zurna as is the tradition in Anatolia. These instruments are also combined like this by the mehter, the Ottoman military band, which you're equally likely to come across though in the city's public squares mostly.

What it is: Outdoor wedding celebration where the guests are regaled by two musicians and have the chance for a little dance before the bride emerges from the house and is whisked away for the actual ceremony. 

Where it is: Anywhere and everywhere! I found my musicians just round the corner from where I live, an area of Beyoglu between Tunel and Tophane. You're most likely to stumble across such a do in the summer and in the more down at heel parts of the city.

School outing

Turkish schoolchildren have an outing to the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Art in Sultanahmet. This museum has an incredible array of very old (15th century onwards) and astonishingly large carpets, not just Turkish but Persian too. Once the palace of Rustem Pasha, Suleiman the Magnificent's Grand Vizier, it has nice views onto the Hippodrome and Blue Mosque too.

No time to write I

I'm not having time to think at all about blogging at the moment as I'm working like crazy taking photos for a new travel guide on Istanbul. Also I have been editing a couple of books, also on a Turkish theme, for publishers Citlembik based in Tunel, Istanbul, and will write a little about these once they are published. 

I'm dashing around the city for my latest project, Bebek, Eminonu, Emirgan, Eyup, Fatih, Galata, Kumkapi, Ortakoy, Princes Islands, Sultanahmet, Taksim, Uskudar, you name it I'm there pursuing hotels, restaurants and plain ordinary folk... Here are some photos taken along the way that I've also managed to take for my own portfolio. This one is of course a whirling dervish in action, click on the slideshow to the top right to see more recent photos. I'll add photos to this blog as and when I can.

The Crimean Church in Galata

Istanbul's dramatic skyline is world famous with its thousands of mosque minarets punctuating the horizon, from which the call to prayer echos five times a day – sounding so romantic to the Western ear. It belies the fact that there are many churches and synagogues there too. The Ottoman Empire was an islamic empire of course with a sizeable minority of people of other faiths whose places of worship were to be located discretely, so no Star of Davids or church steeples spoiling the view. One of the few exceptions is the Crimean Memorial Church in Beyoglu which is still very much a working church with a loyal following of worshippers. As you look at the European side of the city from the water, with the exception of the catholic Saint Antoine, it is the only church spire which pops up to the right (or east) and down from the Galata Tower.

Father Ian (or more correctly the Canon Ian Sherwood OBE) arrived in Istanbul 20 years ago to serve at the British Consulate chapel (recently reopened after the 2003 Al Qaeda bomb attack) and went on to save the derelict Crimean Memorial from the squatters and almost certain conversion into a concert venue. It's difficult to imagine the task he was faced with at the time but for sure today it's an intimate building beautifully restored and very much the hub of all sorts of activities, including the undercroft which is home to Sri Lankan refugees. Last summer saw a visit from Cambridge's Jesus College choir which I was privileged to photograph as part of my ongoing project on the church.

As part of the project I talked to Father Ian about the history of the building and its architecture and became so infected by his love and enthusiasm for it. I especially remember how when he first saw the church all those years ago his immediate reaction was 'Aaaah, now I know why I'm here' after having reluctantly come to an unknown city. It is of historical significance too as it was designed by the Victorian architect G.E. Street (of the Royal Courts of Justice in London) on land specially given to the British by the sultan of the time (1858) as a 'thank you' for their help during the Crimean War. Father Ian has kept the building alive by, for example, commissioning from Scottish artist Mungo McCosh a series of scenes incorporating Biblical characters, local people and the city of Istanbul which adorn the panels of the rood screen.

Where it is: An Anglican church located in the heart of Beyoglu on Serdar Ekrem Sokak, slap bang next to a small mosque whose call to prayer interrupted the Christmas Eve service last year. If coming from Istiklal Caddesi head towards Tunel and turn left at Kumbaraci Yokusu (Lebon Pattiserie is on the corner). Once you've passed the Russian consulate walk downhill for a good 5 minutes before taking the first really steep right turn, the gate to the church is on the left. Services are at 10am every Sunday and there is evensong at 6pm

The Crimean Church at Galata

The Sunday Eucharist

Christmas Eve service

Black Sea anchovies or hamsi II

The Istanbul fishing season began at the beginning of the month, just in time for Ramadan, and the fresh fish markets are once again choc-a-bloc (sp?) with customers and their shiny finned friends. Karadenizli hamsi (or Black Sea anchovies) are a particular favourite here (despite now appearing on the endangered lists) and it's usually possible to pick up a kilo for about 5ytl (£2.20). If required they will be cleaned up (gutted) by the fishermen ready to take home where you can roll them in cornflour and fry lightly for 10 minutes or so. Add an oniony salad and fresh bread and it's a quick and easy dinner. 

What it is: My favourite fish market, and because it's near to where I live, is the Persembe Pazar (Thursday Market) at Karakoy right on the waterfront. Open until 8pm, depending on the catch and time of year you'll be offered seabreem (çupra), salmon (solmon), bonito (palamut), red mullet (barbunya), sea bass (levrek) and  horse mackerel (istavrit). I often buy towards the end of the day when there is less choice but there is a bargain to had. But be careful if the day has been hot that what you buy is still fresh. Once the stalls close the remnants are thrown to the gulls so keep yourself scarce if you have a phobia as the birds descend in the hundreds as feeding time approaches. 

For lunch I like to eat at the outside fish cafe just beyond Thursday Market where there are small tables and stalls set up right by the Golden Horn. It's a locals place and during the week the workers from the offices fill most of the tables. Straightforward and down to earth, you'll have a choice of a balik ekmek (usually bonito in a bun with a little salad) for something like 3ytl (£1.30) or a choice of fish depending on availability, next to which you can order a salad of carrot, rocket and red cabbage. There is also a similar venue set amongst the market itself under the tarpaulin which I've never tried probably because I don't fancy the idea of reeking of fish after the meal. The waterfront venue has a nice view of the Galata Bridge, and Eminonu and the Suleymaniye Mosque on the other side of the Golden Horn. A meal of fish, salad and a drink, depending on the fish, should cost no more than 12-15ytl (£5-£6.50). If your intention after the meal is to go to the other side of the water rather walking across the bridge you could always take one of the frequent small privately owned boats that leave right by the cafe for 1ytl. It's a really bumpy, though exhilarating, ride as you're at the mercy of the waves made by the larger boats.

Where it is: Very close to the Karakoy tram stop, the Galata Bridge and the Galata Tower. Open seven days a week.