You don't have indulge in a tipple to enjoy a weekend night out on the town with friends in Istanbul. Try one of the Tophane nargile, or hookah, cafes within walking distance of both Karakoy and Istiklal Caddesi (just!). In the open air or inside you can lounge on bean bags and drink elma çay (apple tea), regular Turkish çay or a throaty Turkish coffee, try out a nargile which comes in all sorts of flavours (banana even) and play a game of backgammon or catch up on gossip. Oh, and there are also flat screens for football matches. Forget being stuck in an airless smokey Beyoglu club, come and see how the Turkish young enjoy their weekends. It can be packed to the rafters on a Saturday night so make sure you come early and if you're not willing to smoke at least one nargile you won't even be shown to a table.What it is: A great social spot where you can mingle with the Turkish young and it's off the usual tourist track.
Where it is: Just by the Kiliç Ali Pasha Mosque at Tophane and the Tophane tram stop. Within walking distance of Karakoy and Istiklal (at Galatasaray Square head downhill for 10 minutes and it is across the other side of the main road and tram line).
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